A Crafty Natter

Bless You! By Hayley

2012-02-01T20:12:00.000Z

What you need:

5 Stitched panels to fit your chosen tissue box (complete with backstitched borders)
Iron-on interfacing
Pearl # 12 in a colour to match your fabric

This is the trickiest bit, so let's get it out of the way first - the hole to pull your tissues from. Stitch a long run of satin stitch the length/width of the required hole. Cut as shown below and fold the excess under. Backstitch just along the bottom of the satin stitch. This not only leaves a neat edge, but also helps to prevent the fabric fraying over time as you use the tissues.

Iron a piece of interfacing on the rear or your stitched top.

Trim the interfacing. I've allowed a tiny amount of overhang. This is not seen when in use, but again helps prevent fraying.

Iron interfacing on the rear of each of your other panels. This is not compulsory, but does help to protect your stitching for washing etc, hides the pattern on the box and helps to strengthen the finished item.

Now if you're a return visitor, you will know just how many of our finishing articles involve using the backstitch/whip stitch method of joining pieces, and this is another. I tend to use a pearl cotton such as a number 12 as it makes a strong neat edge. If you're new to this method, check out a few more of our entries

Once you've whip stitched all of the panels together, your finished tissue box cover should look something like this:

Four-sided Ornament - by Moll

2011-04-25T20:24:00.008+01:00

What you need:

Four panels of the same size with backstitched edge

Ribbon or cord for hanging

Stuffing

Tassel (optional)

Beads for edging/ corners (optional)

Start by fingerpressing all the edges

Fasten your thread on the back of one of your panels and pull it out in one of the corners

Attach two panels by catching corresponding backstitches as shown – each time from the top. Attaching a bead to every other stitch makes a nice addition – I haven’t done that on this, but try it one time!

It will look like this. Pull your thread as you go along, but not TOO much as it will distort the fabric

Continue around the corner fastening the hanging ribbon or cord as you go along. When you have done two sides fasten the thread, and leave this bit for now.

Repeat with the third and fourth panel. If you want a tassel at the end of your ornament fasten as you go – the same way you did the hanging – you can also easily attach the tassel later, so don’t worry if you forget.

You should now have two pieces that look a bit like this (and the same on both sides)

Now for the midriff. Attach the thread as before in one of the “free points” and start stitching the two pieces together. You want the point of one piece to go in the seam of the other.

As before, stitch the edges attaching beads in the corners or every other stitch as you go (optional). When you have finished just over 2 sides, stuff your ornament. Continue stitching and stuffing as you see fit towards the end – make sure you have plenty of stuffing.

Fasten your thread and enjoy your lovely ornament!

Floss Tag - by Jan

2010-05-28T21:11:00.010+01:00

You Will Need

Stitched front and back

Fusible Interfacing

Punch and setting tools

Eyelet and ring

Cut interfacing to size to fit just inside your backstitched borders. Iron the interfacing (shiney side down) to both pieces.

Trim each piece to leave about 3/4 inch surrounding the backstitched outer line. Be careful not to trim to close otherwise fraying could be a problem.

You are now ready to start joining the pieces together. With wrong sides together and making sure both pieces are the right way up, finger press the edges of the first side to be joined to the inside ( your backstitched line should sit on the fold). Attach thread to one of the corners. ( I used two strands for joining the pieces).

Whipstitch the sides together taking care to match up the stitches on each side and being careful not to catch the fabric ( just take your needle under the backstitches).

When you reach the first corner turn your stitching and finger press the borders on the next side and continue to whipstitch as before.

Continue to whipstitch until all four sides have been joined. Fasten off your thread by stitching into the seam and then cut off the waste.

You now need to punch a hole through your tag. This can be done using a punch such as the one in the picture or a hand punch tool and hammer.

Once the hole is punched you need to push an eyelet through the hole and use the "setting tool" to squeeze the eyelet closed so that the back of the eyelet lies flush against the fabric.

All that now remains is to insert your ring, attach some floss and enjoy the results of your hard work.

Fabric Bowl

2010-05-26T14:24:00.000+01:00

You will need:

Thick Card or Plastic for template

Card ie cereal boxes

Fabric Glue

Double-sided Tape

Fabric in two designs

Thread to match.

Firstly decide what size pentagon you want to use and make a template in either plastic or thick card.

Next you need to draw 12 of these onto cardboard and cut them out. Cereal boxes are just right.
Using the same template draw around it on another piece of card, then add 1/2" all round to make your fabric template

Use this template to cut 6 pentagons of one fabric and 6 in another fabric.

Use double sided tape on the coloured side of the card, place a carboard pentagon on the fabric and fold over the edges neatly.

Use a tiny amount of fabric glue to hold the corners down. use pegs to hold in place until dry.

When you have done all 12, stitch them together with thread to match your fabrics and using tiny stitches.

Make 2 to this stage below.

Decide which one is going to be the inside of the bowl and stitch together to look like this.

Stitch the second one together but have the fabric on the outside.

So now you should have 2 bowls, one with fabric inside, one with fabric outside.
Place one inside the other, (the inside one should sit just above the outside one) and glue along all the edges, hold it together with lots of pegs until dry.

Now you should have a pretty bowl that will hold almost anything you like. Nice for gifts with sweets in, or bathtime products, or to use for orts etc.

Why not join us on A Crafty Natter to show off your bowls

Pumpkin Pot

2010-03-23T12:08:00.000Z

You will need:

Clean empty tin can

Circle of fabric ( 28cm diam for a 'Carnation' tin)

Strong cotton thread

Thin card cut to fit the interior wall of the tin

Thin card to fit the interior base of the tin x 2

Thin card to sit atop the tin as a lid

Wadding or cushion filler.

Braid or trimming

Glue

Pegs

Step 1

2010-03-23T12:03:00.000Z

Work a running stitch about an inch or so inside the circle of fabric.

Step 2

2010-03-23T12:02:00.000Z

Find the centre of the circle of fabric by folding into quarters.

Draw 8 strands of strong cotton (I used #8 pearl) from the centre of the circle of fabric, securing with a knot on the reverse

Step 3

2010-03-23T11:50:00.000Z

Pull the running stitch ends up a little to create a little pocket, and fill with wadding

Step 4

2010-03-23T11:49:00.000Z

Put the tin into the padded pocket and draw the running stitch up tightly to secure, and tie off.

Step 5

2010-03-23T11:47:00.000Z

Glue the overlap to the inner wall of the tin and secure until dry with pegs

Step 6

2010-03-23T11:46:00.000Z

With the strip of card and fabric, glue only the top edge down as shown, and cut 'nicks' into the bottom

Step 7

2010-03-23T11:42:00.000Z

Evenly arrange the threads from the base over the padded outer cover. Pull taught to create the pumpkin shape and glue to the interior

Now glue the covered strip of card to hide the threads with the 'nicked' edged arranged over the internal base of the tin, and create a pretty interior.

Step 8

2010-03-23T11:36:00.001Z

Cover the first smaller circle with fabric, and glue to the bottom of the tin once dry. And attach a pretty braid or similar to the top of the pot to conceal the edges.

Step 9

2010-03-23T11:33:00.001Z

Cover the larger circle of card with fabric as before and attach a bead or button for a handle.

Secure with a knot behind

Now cover the 2nd smaller circle as before, and cover the back of the lid to make it neat. Hold with pegs again til dry.

Finally

2010-03-23T11:27:00.001Z

Now to fill with buttons or sweeties!

Lacing up your work

2010-02-02T17:08:00.000Z

This tutorial is to show you how to lace up your stitching ready for framing or making into an ornament.

You will need :
Your piece of stitching
Mountboard
Strong cotton
Wadding
Double sided tape
Quilters pins.

Step 1

2010-02-02T17:04:00.000Z

Cut your mountboard to fit your frame.

Step 2

2010-02-02T17:00:00.000Z

Iron your stitching flat.

Step 3

2010-02-02T16:58:00.000Z

Put some double sided tape onto your mountboard and cut some wadding to fit. Place the wadding on top of your taped mountboard.

Step 4

2010-02-02T16:55:00.000Z

Your covered mountboard

Step 5

2010-02-02T16:53:00.000Z

Position your stitched piece centrally over your mountboard and pin in place putting the pins through the edge of the mountboard.

Step 6

2010-02-02T16:51:00.000Z

Continue adding the pins to reduce movement when lacing up your stitching. After pinning your stitching in place you can start lacing up.

Step 7

2010-02-02T16:48:00.000Z

To start the lacing cut a piece of strong cotton quite a long length ( I used about three metres)

Then fold it in half so you can attach it with the loop method, this way its nice and secure.

Step 8

2010-02-02T16:42:00.000Z

Start threading top and bottom to pull the fabric tight over the board, don't overtighten. Continue till you reach the middle.

Step 9

2010-02-02T16:37:00.000Z

Leave a long end so you can tie it later. Turn it around and lace the other end.

Step 10

2010-02-02T16:34:00.000Z

You should have two loose ends that have met in the middle, one on either side.

Don't leave them too short.

Step 11

2010-02-02T16:31:00.000Z

Make sure you pull all the threads tight, don't overtighten them.

Step 12

2010-02-02T16:28:00.000Z

Tie the two ends together

Step 13

2010-02-02T16:25:00.001Z

Two sides are now complete, turn it round and start again on the other sides.

Step 14

2010-02-02T16:10:00.004Z

Start lacing again working into the middle.

Step 15

2010-02-02T16:04:00.000Z

Again start at the other end and lace into the middle.

Step 16

2010-02-02T15:59:00.000Z

Pull all the threads to make sure its not slack, don't overtighten it though. Then tie a knot. Once you have tied it remove the pins.

Step 17

2010-02-02T15:55:00.000Z

This is how your stitching should look after being laced.

Step 18

2010-02-02T15:52:00.000Z

All laced up and ready for framing.

The End

2010-02-02T15:48:00.000Z

Ta Da finished item

Storage Box

2010-01-24T12:02:00.005Z

Materials:

Basic Box:

1@ 30x11cm card (base)

2@ 30x20cm card (front & back)

2@ 10.6x20cm card (sides)

Outer Shell:

2@ 32x12cm card (base and lid)

1@ 32x20cm card (back)

Interior:

2@ 29x19cm card (front and back)

2@ 10.2x19cm card (sides)

1@ 28x10.4cm card (base)

1@ 30x11cm card (inside lid)

Parcel/Masking Tape

Fabric

Glue

Ribbon 25cm
Flanged Braiding
Tassel to match
Pegs

Step 1

2010-01-24T12:00:00.001Z

Tape sides and base to form your basic box shape. I've taped both inside and outside for added strength.

Step 2

2010-01-24T11:52:00.003Z

Cut your chosen fabric and glue it to 3 sides of your box, leaving the back free (as you can see, I forgot this part, hence the glue on the back lol)

Step 3

2010-01-24T11:44:00.003Z

Take your outer shell pieces of card now, and glue them onto the fabric with 7mm of clear fabric between each piece to allow for folding around the box. Hold with pegs until dry.

This will form the base, back and lid.

Step 4

2010-01-24T11:37:00.005Z

Take a piece of fabric, around 5 cm x 28cm and glue half of it to the inside back of your box to form a 'hinge'. Then with your ribbon, glue one end of it to the inside of one of the side walls to create another hinge.

Cover all the lining pieces, glue and slot them into place, sandwiching the ribbon and the fabric hinge.

Hold with pegs until dry

Step 5

2010-01-24T11:33:00.003Z

Glue on the base and back, and glue the top edge of the fabric hinge to the 'lid'

Step 6

2010-01-24T11:26:00.005Z

Lay the last piece of covered card over the inside of the lid to hide the messy edges, sandwiching the other end of the ribbon to complete the hinge

Hold everything together with pegs until completely dry.

Storage Box

2010-01-24T10:55:00.004Z

*Note Add the flanged braiding and tassel before glueing the inside lid (Step 6)*

And there you have it. Personally, I'm going to pop some dividers within stating the months of the year, and store greetings cards in it.

By changing the dimensions, you can make anything from small gift boxes to a huge box to store all your lovely stash.

Flat Fold

2009-07-20T10:27:00.007+01:00

Materials

Mount Board x 4

Quilt wadding/batting
Fabric

Stitched design

Glue

Cording/ribbon

Pegs

Pins

Cut your boards a little larger to suit your stitched piece. (I used 6x6in)

Cut one piece of wadding to the same size as your boards

Cut 2 pieces of fabric allowing 2in excess for overlaps. (ie 8x8)

Cut one piece of fabric that is 2in wider than your board, but 6in longer than your board (ie 8x12) to allow for a 5in long 'flap'

And finally a rough 6in long piece of fabric to form your 'tab'

Don't panic, all will become clear as you read through the instructions.

Step 1

2009-07-20T10:23:00.002+01:00

Glue wadding to one of the boards.
Now mount your stitched piece over the wadding to make a nicely padded front to your flat fold.

Ensure you centre it properly, and glue it securely. Use pegs to hold it until dry.

Step 2

2009-07-20T10:21:00.001+01:00

Cover two of the boards with the two matching pieces of fabric

Hold with pegs until dry

Step 3

2009-07-20T10:16:00.002+01:00

Cover the final board with the longer piece of fabric with around 1in allowance at bottom and sides. There should be about 5in at the top of the board as shown.

Spread glue on the bottom and stick down

Now spread the glue along the sides (all the way to the top of the fabric) and stick those down.

Step 4

2009-07-20T10:12:00.003+01:00

Using a 6 inch long scrap of fabric, spread the centre with glue, and fold over the sides to get a no-sew fabric 'tab' as shown

Step 5

2009-07-20T10:07:00.003+01:00

Take the board with the 'flap' and lay down flat with wrong-side up. Glue one end of the fabric tab to the middle bottom of the board. Spread glue over the wrong side board and place the 2nd board with wrong-sides together as shown.

Notice the fabric tab is now sandwiched between the two boards, and pegs used to hold it all together until dry.

Step 6

2009-07-20T10:02:00.005+01:00

Take your final board and place it on top of the other with wrong side facing.

Peg the bottom of the three boards until dry

Step 7

2009-07-20T09:43:00.005+01:00

Glue down the 'flap' to the wrong-side of the board, and hold with pegs until dry

The edge will look like a bound fabric book

Step 8

2009-07-20T09:32:00.004+01:00

Take the fabric 'tab' and glue to the bottom centre of the top board
Glue the stitched piece to the board, sandwiching the tab between boards. You may need to play with the tab length to the angle of the flat fold is best achieved

Step 9

2009-07-20T09:27:00.004+01:00

Glue your chosen braid to the edge of the front. Hold secure with pins and pegs until dry

Finish with a bow, again pinned into place.

That should do it

2009-07-20T09:18:00.007+01:00

And there you have it.

Heart Fob

2009-03-24T16:22:00.002Z

This would work equally as well for any shaped fob or ornament, adjusting the length of your side piece to suit.

Materials Needed:

Three stitched pieces as shown below

Thread to match design

Ribbon

Filling

Step 1

2009-03-24T16:20:00.001Z

Cut your pieces to a more manageable size, at least an inch all around

Step 2

2009-03-24T16:18:00.002Z

Whip stitch the backstitching of the edge design and the top heart all the way around.

Step 3

2009-03-24T16:15:00.002Z

Push out to form the shape and add the ribbon. I knot the end to help keep it in place, securing with a couple of stitches.

Now whip stitch the bottom of the fob into place. This can be quite tricky, but it's worth it. Leave a gap for filling.

Step 4

2009-03-24T16:12:00.003Z

Back stitch the ends of the edging piece

Push out all the edges to form the shape, fill and whip stitch the opening.

Finished

2009-03-24T16:10:00.004Z

And that's all there is to it!

Simple Fob

2009-03-24T16:05:00.004Z

Materials needed:

Two stitched pieces, identical in size and shape.

Thread to match the fabric colour

Filling

Ribbon

Step 1

2009-03-24T16:03:00.003Z

Begin with your two stitched pieces. They must be the same size, but not necessarily the same design.

Step 2

2009-03-24T16:00:00.002Z

Backstitch a border, 3 threads out from your design in fabric coloured thread on both pieces of your fob, making sure they are the same size.

Step 3

2009-03-24T15:58:00.003Z

Fold over edges along the backstitches with right sides out.

Step 4

2009-03-24T15:55:00.002Z

Slip stitch all the edges together, leaving a small gap for filling. Add your length of ribbon before stitching up the opening

Finished

2009-03-24T15:49:00.004Z

Just slip it through your scissors and voila!

Odds n Ends Tray - By Rachael.

2009-01-29T13:34:00.000Z

Firstly, you need your stitched item, plus a backing fabric of your choice.

Step 1

2009-01-29T13:31:00.001Z

Place the fabrics wrong sides facing out,(right sides facing each other) and sew a seam all the way around the edge,

except for an opening where you will pull it inside out.

Step 2

2009-01-29T13:28:00.002Z

Next Turn it inside out so you have the right side on the outside

Then iron it. Making sure the opening is ironed the same as the seam

Step 3

2009-01-29T13:25:00.001Z

Next you need to sew a seam just around the edge, ensuring that the opening is sewn shut as well.

Step 4

2009-01-29T13:22:00.001Z

Now for the corners, pinch together the corners ,where you would like them to be.

And sew together,and do that with each corner

Job Done

2009-01-29T13:20:00.004Z

And then you can use it to hold your favourite chocolate whilst you are stitching.

Cushion Cover by Maddy

2009-01-23T20:12:00.001Z

Materials needed:
stitched square
border fabrics
backing fabric
a cushion insert/stuffing

I have used a cushion from IKEA that costs 49p and measures 14in x 14in or 35cm x 35cm. However it is blue so be careful when wanting to use lighter fabrics.Firstly iron all your fabrics and trim your stitched square. I trimmed mine to 6in x 6in as it was only small. Obviously your sizes may vary.I cut 4 rectangles of 6in x 2 in and 4 squares of 2in x 2in for the first border.

Step 2

2009-01-23T20:10:00.002Z

Then sew all the pieces together in three’s. The top three, middle three and then the bottom three.

Then sew them all together from top to bottom

Step 3

2009-01-23T19:59:00.002Z

Next cut your wider border fabrics. Mine are cut as 11in x 4in.

Start with the top piece and sew from the edge of the large border to the beginning of the bottom square of the inner border. Do this for three sides.

Then sew down the final panel all the way down.

And sew up the rest of the gaps.

As you can see mine are a little long so I then trimmed the edges. I have also overlocked them.

Sorry if come pf the photos are of a different cushion, when I did the second I thought it would be easier to show it at intervals.

Step 4

2009-01-23T19:56:00.000Z

Cut the backing panel the same size as the front panel, mine is now 14in x 14in.Sew around three edges and leave a gap at the bottom edge then turn it through the right way.

Step 5

2009-01-23T19:53:00.000Z

Then push in the cushion/stuff and slip stitch the opening

Finished

2009-01-23T19:50:00.003Z

Hey presto! A cushion cover (or two!)

Needle Case By Tammy

2008-12-31T13:41:00.008Z

You will need:

Finished stitched piece (I chose to buttonhole stitch around the piece. Alternatively you could fray the edges. This is better if using stiffer aida, being less likely to fray further)

Piece of felt, slightly smaller than finished piece

Thread

Step 1

2008-12-31T13:39:00.001Z

With your design face-down, place your felt centrally.

Step 2

2008-12-31T13:38:00.002Z

Turn over and pin along the centre.

Step 3

2008-12-31T13:35:00.005Z

Simply stitch the two pieces together using backstitch.

Step 4

2008-12-31T13:33:00.001Z

Fold and finger-crease along the stitching.

Finally

2008-12-31T12:45:00.003Z

Open up and start using!

Calendar

2008-12-18T18:02:00.006Z

You will need:

1 x Stiff Card. 22 x 7cm

1 x Thinner Card 22 x 7cm (cereal packets perhaps)

1 x Wadding 22 x 7cm (optional)

Hole Punch

PVA Glue

Ribbon (about 20cm)

Stitched design with plenty of excess fabric ie 30 x 10cm

Co-ordinating fabric:

1 x 30 x 10cm

2 x 21 x 6cm

Calendar sheets - Leave me your email, I have them on file ready to print out.

Pegs

Step 1

2008-12-18T18:00:00.003Z

I have cut out enough for two calendars here. The two pink are the thinner card, and the maroon being the thicker card for the front of your calendar.

Step 2

2008-12-18T17:54:00.005Z

This is my chosen piece of stitching with plenty of excess fabric for finishing. Beneath, I have glued the wadding to the thicker piece of card. (optional)

Here I have made a kloster block and cut out the centre to create a neat hole for the ribbon.

Step 3

2008-12-18T17:48:00.005Z

Hole-punch through all of your calandar sheets, and through both pieces of card.

Step 4

2008-12-18T17:43:00.003Z

Taking your stitched fabric, glue around the edges of the thicker card, and hold with pegs until dry

Now glue the larger piece of chosen fabric to the thinner piece of card, wrapping the edges over.

Step 5

2008-12-18T17:40:00.003Z

Glue the two remaining pieces of fabric to the inside of the card to complete, holding with pegs until dry.

Step 6

2008-12-18T17:38:00.002Z

Thread the ribbon through all the punched holes using a large needle, and tie a bow.

Calendar

2008-12-18T17:35:00.002Z

That should do it. You can replace the pages of the calendar each year if you wish.

Notebook

2008-12-07T12:00:00.004Z

It matters not what size your chosen notebook is as this will work for all of them. Obviously you will need to change the sizes accordingly of your fabric and card (around 1.5cm more than the notebook for the cardstock). For this model, I have used a 7.5 x 12.5 cm pad with the front cover removed.

You will need:

Notebook
2 x Stiff card 9 x 14cm
1 x Stiff card 9 x 1 cm
2 x thinner card 8 x 13cm
PVA glue
Fabric for covering
2 x ribbon 20cm long.

Step 1

2008-12-07T11:57:00.002Z

Cut fabric as shown. Here I have laid out the thicker pieces of card, and simply cut around them, generally have around 1.5-2cm excess for sticking.

Step 2

2008-12-07T11:55:00.004Z

Fold and paste edges, holding with pegs until dry. Mark the folds in the middle between each board

Step 3

2008-12-07T11:53:00.001Z

Measure and cut a 12.5 x 4cm strip of fabric. Press the two shorter ends as shown below.

Step 4

2008-12-07T11:44:00.004Z

Cover the two thinner pieces of card, holding with pegs until the glue is dry.

Adjust and glue the piece of fabric cut in step 3 over the small strip of card as shown below on the main body of the notebook.
Note the longer edges lay over the other parts of the notebook - this forms the 'hinge'

Now glue on the first of the covered thinner card, sandwiching a length of ribbon.

Step 5

2008-12-07T11:33:00.003Z

Cut a piece of fabric 14 x 5cm and press as shown below for the holding band.

Holding the back of the notebook in place, slide the fabric into place, right sides facing.

Fold edges over, glue and hold with pegs until dry.

Step 6

2008-12-07T11:21:00.003Z

Glue the last piece of card to the inside cover, remembering to sandwich the ribbon. Hold with pegs until dry.

Notebook

2008-12-07T11:15:00.005Z

And it's as simple as that. Now decorate with your stitching or embellishments.