Mounting in a hoop

We've already featured how to lace your work to go in a frame and this is quite similar. 

Step 1

Using the outer edge of the smaller ring of your display hoop as a guide, mark and cut out a panel of felt for the rear of your work.

Centre your stitching in your chosen display hoop.

Using #8 pearl thread to match the colour of your fabric and running stitch, follow the shape of your hoop and draw it up, securing with a knot.

Step 2

Now crisscross another length of pearl thread, pulling the thread taut as you go.

Step 3

Spread a line of fabric glue around the edge of the piece of felt and apply to the rear of your work to both hide and protect it.

Step 4

Place the finished piece between a couple of heavy books to assist with the bonding process for a few hours.

Mason Jar topper

Perfect for gifts, these little mason jars are cheap and cheerful, and so easy.  

Step 1

Remove the inner disk of the lid and using the outer edge of the lid, gently mark with a pencil and cut out your stitched piece.

Step 2

Repeat with a couple of pieces of wadding, depending on the thickness of it and how firm you want the cushion to be.

Step 3

A spot of glue will secure the whole thing, then replace the base disk.  You can also glue this if you wish, or leave it just pushed in place so next year you can change the design. 

Simple. 

O Christmas Tree

Stitch your chosen patterns, adding a backstitch border and repeat the backstitch shape for each base.  Each pair are slightly smaller.

Cut each pair of panels out, complete with excess for folding in.

Whip stitch each pair and stuff.  If you've looked at other creations on this tutorial site, you'll know how to whip stitch.  

The bottom, largest section is filled with plastic beans for stability.  If you're hanging this ornament, all three sections can be stuffed with lightweight toy filler.

Decorate with beads or charms.  I've attached a star to the top of my Christmas tree but any charm would work, or a nice ribbon to finish. 

Bless You! By Hayley

What you need:

5 Stitched panels to fit your chosen tissue box (complete with backstitched borders)
Iron-on interfacing
Pearl # 12 in a colour to match your fabric

This is the trickiest bit, so let's get it out of the way first - the hole to pull your tissues from.  Stitch a long run of satin stitch the length/width of the required hole.  Cut as shown below and fold the excess under.  Backstitch just along the bottom of the satin stitch.  This not only leaves a neat edge, but also helps to prevent the fabric fraying over time as you use the tissues.

Iron a piece of interfacing on the rear or your stitched top.

Trim the interfacing.  I've allowed a tiny amount of overhang.  This is not seen when in use, but again helps prevent fraying.

Iron interfacing on the rear of each of your other panels.  This is not compulsory, but does help to protect your stitching for washing etc, hides the pattern on the box and helps to strengthen the finished item.

Now if you're a return visitor, you will know just how many of our finishing articles involve using the backstitch/whip stitch method of joining pieces, and this is another.  I tend to use a pearl cotton such as a number 12 as it makes a strong neat edge.  If you're new to this method, check out a few more of our entries

Once you've whip stitched all of the panels together, your finished tissue box cover should look something like this:

Four-sided Ornament - by Moll

What you need:

Four panels of the same size with backstitched edge

Ribbon or cord for hanging

Stuffing

Tassel (optional)

Beads for edging/ corners (optional)

Start by fingerpressing all the edges

 

Fasten your thread on the back of one of your panels and pull it out in one of the corners

Attach two panels by catching corresponding backstitches as shown – each time from the top. Attaching a bead to every other stitch makes a nice addition – I haven’t done that on this, but try it one time!

It will look like this. Pull your thread as you go along, but not TOO much as it will distort the fabric

Continue around the corner fastening the hanging ribbon or cord as you go along. When you have done two sides fasten the thread, and leave this bit for now.

Repeat with the third and fourth panel. If you want a tassel at the end of your ornament fasten as you go – the same way you did the hanging – you can also easily attach the tassel later, so don’t worry if you forget.

You should now have two pieces that look a bit like this (and the same on both sides)

Now for the midriff. Attach the thread as before in one of the “free points” and start stitching the two pieces together. You want the point of one piece to go in the seam of the other.

As before, stitch the edges attaching beads in the corners or every other stitch as you go (optional). When you have finished just over 2 sides, stuff your ornament. Continue stitching and stuffing as you see fit towards the end – make sure you have plenty of stuffing.

Fasten your thread and enjoy your lovely ornament!

Floss Tag - by Jan

You Will Need

Stitched front and back

Fusible Interfacing

Punch and setting tools

Eyelet and ring

Cut interfacing to size to fit just inside your backstitched borders. Iron the interfacing (shiney side down) to both pieces.

Trim each piece to leave about 3/4 inch surrounding the backstitched outer line. Be careful not to trim to close otherwise fraying could be a problem.

You are now ready to start joining the pieces together. With wrong sides together and making sure both pieces are the right way up, finger press the edges of the first side to be joined to the inside ( your backstitched line should sit on the fold). Attach thread to one of the corners. ( I used two strands for joining the pieces).

Whipstitch the sides together taking care to match up the stitches on each side and being careful not to catch the fabric ( just take your needle under the backstitches).

When you reach the first corner turn your stitching and finger press the borders on the next side and continue to whipstitch as before.

Continue to whipstitch until all four sides have been joined. Fasten off your thread by stitching into the seam and then cut off the waste.

You now need to punch a hole through your tag. This can be done using a punch such as the one in the picture or a hand punch tool and hammer.

Once the hole is punched you need to push an eyelet through the hole and use the "setting tool" to squeeze the eyelet closed so that the back of the eyelet lies flush against the fabric.

All that now remains is to insert your ring, attach some floss and enjoy the results of your hard work.