This blog is intended as a finishing tutorial for crafting.

Dedicated to all the hard work of the members of A Crafty Natter, a chat site bringing crafters together from across the globe as a thank you.

Wednesday, 1 February 2012

Bless You! By Hayley

What you need:

5 Stitched panels to fit your chosen tissue box (complete with backstitched borders)
Iron-on interfacing
Pearl # 12 in a colour to match your fabric

This is the trickiest bit, so let's get it out of the way first - the hole to pull your tissues from.  Stitch a long run of satin stitch the length/width of the required hole.  Cut as shown below and fold the excess under.  Backstitch just along the bottom of the satin stitch.  This not only leaves a neat edge, but also helps to prevent the fabric fraying over time as you use the tissues.

Iron a piece of interfacing on the rear or your stitched top.

Trim the interfacing.  I've allowed a tiny amount of overhang.  This is not seen when in use, but again helps prevent fraying.

Iron interfacing on the rear of each of your other panels.  This is not compulsory, but does help to protect your stitching for washing etc, hides the pattern on the box and helps to strengthen the finished item.

Now if you're a return visitor, you will know just how many of our finishing articles involve using the backstitch/whip stitch method of joining pieces, and this is another.  I tend to use a pearl cotton such as a number 12 as it makes a strong neat edge.  If you're new to this method, check out a few more of our entries

Once you've whip stitched all of the panels together, your finished tissue box cover should look something like this:

Monday, 25 April 2011

Four-sided Ornament - by Moll

What you need:
Four panels of the same size with backstitched edge
Ribbon or cord for hanging
Tassel (optional)
Beads for edging/ corners (optional)

Start by fingerpressing all the edges


Fasten your thread on the back of one of your panels and pull it out in one of the corners

Attach two panels by catching corresponding backstitches as shown – each time from the top. Attaching a bead to every other stitch makes a nice addition – I haven’t done that on this, but try it one time!

It will look like this. Pull your thread as you go along, but not TOO much as it will distort the fabric

Continue around the corner fastening the hanging ribbon or cord as you go along. When you have done two sides fasten the thread, and leave this bit for now.

Repeat with the third and fourth panel. If you want a tassel at the end of your ornament fasten as you go – the same way you did the hanging – you can also easily attach the tassel later, so don’t worry if you forget.

You should now have two pieces that look a bit like this (and the same on both sides)

Now for the midriff. Attach the thread as before in one of the “free points” and start stitching the two pieces together. You want the point of one piece to go in the seam of the other.

As before, stitch the edges attaching beads in the corners or every other stitch as you go (optional). When you have finished just over 2 sides, stuff your ornament. Continue stitching and stuffing as you see fit towards the end – make sure you have plenty of stuffing.

Fasten your thread and enjoy your lovely ornament!

Friday, 28 May 2010

Floss Tag - by Jan

You Will Need
Stitched front and back
Fusible Interfacing
Punch and setting tools
Eyelet and ring

Cut interfacing to size to fit just inside your backstitched borders. Iron the interfacing (shiney side down) to both pieces.

Trim each piece to leave about 3/4 inch surrounding the backstitched outer line. Be careful not to trim to close otherwise fraying could be a problem.

You are now ready to start joining the pieces together. With wrong sides together and making sure both pieces are the right way up, finger press the edges of the first side to be joined to the inside ( your backstitched line should sit on the fold). Attach thread to one of the corners. ( I used two strands for joining the pieces).

Whipstitch the sides together taking care to match up the stitches on each side and being careful not to catch the fabric ( just take your needle under the backstitches).

When you reach the first corner turn your stitching and finger press the borders on the next side and continue to whipstitch as before.

Continue to whipstitch until all four sides have been joined. Fasten off your thread by stitching into the seam and then cut off the waste.

You now need to punch a hole through your tag. This can be done using a punch such as the one in the picture or a hand punch tool and hammer.

Once the hole is punched you need to push an eyelet through the hole and use the "setting tool" to squeeze the eyelet closed so that the back of the eyelet lies flush against the fabric.

All that now remains is to insert your ring, attach some floss and enjoy the results of your hard work.

Tuesday, 23 March 2010

Pumpkin Pot

You will need:
Clean empty tin can
Circle of fabric ( 28cm diam for a 'Carnation' tin)
Strong cotton thread
Thin card cut to fit the interior wall of the tin
Thin card to fit the interior base of the tin x 2
Thin card to sit atop the tin as a lid
Wadding or cushion filler.
Braid or trimming

Step 1

Work a running stitch about an inch or so inside the circle of fabric.

Step 2

Find the centre of the circle of fabric by folding into quarters.

Draw 8 strands of strong cotton (I used #8 pearl) from the centre of the circle of fabric, securing with a knot on the reverse

Step 3

Pull the running stitch ends up a little to create a little pocket, and fill with wadding

Step 4

Put the tin into the padded pocket and draw the running stitch up tightly to secure, and tie off.

Step 5

Glue the overlap to the inner wall of the tin and secure until dry with pegs

Step 6

With the strip of card and fabric, glue only the top edge down as shown, and cut 'nicks' into the bottom